Cover Page | Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4 | Page 5 |

| Page 6 | Page 7 | Page 8 | Page 9 | Page 10 | Page 11 |


With the stock setup, a cam gets dropped into place, and that's where it stays.  Mainly because there are two bolt holes on the cam.  These bolt holes line up with the bolt holes on the cam sprocket.

And that's the way it works.

This is sort of nice, if you assume that cams are exactly the same.

But for that critical bit of performance, a cam should be able to be individually adjusted to the engine.  Also, the performance curve can be modified somewhat by redegreeing (again, an impossibility with the stocker).

The secret bit on this is the special cam drive gear which R.C. includes as part of the Cobra kit.  This has six holes, which gives the owner up to 14 degrees of cam placement, to adjust for shortcomings or desired modifications.

Cam chain goes up in the air, cam gear and cam go into place, after rockers and rocker shafts, etc., plus the trick R.C. rocker stand supports go on.

Collins, by the way, doesn't recommend lightening the rocker arms.  That's a car trick, and with eight or so cylinders, you get improved revs.  However, with only four cylinders, and rockers that are already minimal weight, there's nothing but hassles to be gained.

The rockers are, however, very closely inspected by Moffet. One area he checks critically is scuffing on the foot. If the hard chroming is worn off, the rocker gets quickly junked out.

Once assembly of the upper end is complete, Moffet degrees the cam.

First stage, of course, is making sure that the valves aren't going to hit the pistons.  Old-time builders did this by installing a hunk of clay on top of the piston, and then turning the engine through.  Then the head came back off, and the clay was checked for any valve notches.

Moffet has a very simple comment on this:

"Stone age."

A much better way is by moving each piston in turn to TDC.  Then a dial indicator is mounted on the engine (Moffet has a magnetic mount), and the cam is set on an overlap stroke.  The dial indicator is set to zero, and then the rocker arm is lifted with a screwdriver.  He knows maximum cam lift, and adds .050-inch. If nothing hits before that reads on the dial indicator, he's home free, with no muss, no fuss, no disassembly and reassembly, and no clay gooping up the inside of his engine.

Now for degreeing.

Degreeing is, very simply, checking to see that the cam behaves as it's supposed to, when it's supposed to.  Or, with the adjustable cam chain sprocket, setting it where it's supposed to.

Cylinder #1 is moved to TDC.  He sets a degree wheel and a pointer on the crank.  Then he finds the base circle - the point where the rocker arm is on the heel of the cam, and the dial indicator doesn't lift.

At this point, the dial indicator is set to zero.  The engine is then rotated through, until the dial indicator indicates .100 lift.

At that point, the degree wheel on the crank is checked.  It should match the theoretical cam opening point.   The engine is rotated again, and when the dial indicator returns to .100, a second reading is taken.  This should match the specified cam closing point.

If not, the cam gear bolts are loosened, and the cam is readjusted. That is the most complicated and careful end of a very careful assemblage.

All of the information on the engine is entered on a small card, which is shipped with the engine to the customer.  You then can tune your engine yourself (or even take it to a dealer, hand him the sheet, and any competent wrench should be able to work on it).

The final step is putting on the wrinkle-black valve cover, with large supports, and cementing that brass plaque on either side of it.

You are now two grand poorer.

And you have your basic engine.

The engine, by the way, comes with a Lockhart oil cooler.  Collins has found this to be the most effective cooler, and insists on its use.

There are now three options left to the customer.

First is exhaust.  With an R.C. engine, by far the most logical thing to use is an R.C. pipe.  So you're out $140.  The pipe, by the way, not only works extremely well, but is well within the legal parameters of most cops' ears.

That's simple.

The next choice is carburetion.  For several years, Collins was pushing Weber carbs.  The kit goes out the door for $350, complete with manifold, linkage and all the rest.

It is easy to install, and works exceptionally well.  The biggest problem that might be encountered is finding things like jets and such in a non-urban area.  The carbs come, by the way, very close to correct.  The most that is usually necessary is to change the main jet size one notch. The carbs aren't just shipped "as is" to the customer - R.C. spends a good deal of time setting them up.

They offer several advantages, in addition to looking evil.  There is probably more wide-open-power advantage to them than any other carb on the market.  Plus they are mechanically synched, and don't require use of a vacuum gauge.

However, there are several major drawbacks. They can be hard to order - everything out of Italy these days is questionable regarding availability.

Second, is, of course, the cost.  And finally is the availability of parts.R.C. has found, after extensive experimentation, that the standard carbs, with modifications, work just as well for any sort of usage other than wide-open competition.   Since the price of modification is only $95, this is something to consider.

The final option is ignition.  Stock ignition simply won't work with the Cobra engine.  As any owner knows, Honda fires two plugs simultaneously. One is just before the intake stroke, one is on power.  All well and good, with stock cams.

However, with a hot-rod cam, the intake valve is open when the coil fires.  This can partially fire the incoming mixture, and vastly reduce the efficiency of the engine.  Even an otherwise excellent unit like the Sebring CDI doesn't solve this problem.

Any system which retains the double-firing of the coils will have this.

Formerly, the only solution was the ARD magneto.  This, though, has jumped in price to a very healthy $249. The mag, also, can be back-ordered as much as four to six months at any time.

The mag provides, however, a number of excellent services.  First, of course, is that all four plugs are fired separately, which eliminates any trouble with firing on the intake stroke. The ARD mag eliminates the whole stock points, advance and coils, and takes about five minutes to install on a bike.  It is a locked advance (normally at about 32 degrees), and works extremely well.  One tested by us gave little trouble over 13,000 miles, in all kinds of weather.

Collins is currently, though, finalizing an ignition system for the street rider, which is supposed to retail for around $159.  It is a Mallory competition distributor, which will include a new transformer.  It mounts on the points side, and the rider can set advance and points curve on the item with no trouble.  The points can be replaced at any speed shop, and the Mallory will also fire only one cylinder at a time.

Those parts complete the Cobra engine.

With this, you now are going to become the instant street or strip terror of your town.  You know, unquestionably, that you have the fastest bike around.

For some people, that's enough to justify two grand right there.

For any racer, the security of being unbeatable is worth any price.  It also is not a bad way of paying for that Cobra engine.

And a Cobra is a very deadly animal.

One strike and you're gone.

__________

 

Cover Page | Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4 | Page 5 |

| Page 6 | Page 7 | Page 8 | Page 9 | Page 10 | Page 11 |